Feliz Navidad

Feliz Navidad, since it's x-mas and I'm south of the border. Crazy dance party last night at the campground, let me tell you, mexico rave 2007, playing picken up the peso, picken up the peso.

But yesterday was a good climbing day, so there was reason to celebrate apart from this halmark holiday. Edgardo and I climbed this sick monolith next to the police station in town, making a quick getaway to avoid any third-world consequences.

I also sent this bouldery thing, Crawling King Snake (13d). The bottom moves are a pain in the ass, thank god for kneepads. I don't know what I would do if I actually had to climb these things - I'm more of a rock crawler. That wall, Culo de Gato, is full of phenomenal climbs, so while it's not exactly aesthetic, it's worth checking out. Except for that dust, some fine fine dust, that poofs up with every step and coats your soul with filth.

I leave this place today, flying south for a while. Just as I'm getting into shape. That's how it goes, life isn't fair, full of disappointment and broken promises. Look at that - I think my calling in life is to be a 14 year old journal entry writer, circa pretty hate machine.

UPDATE: John won some climbing mag photo comp with this shot of some monster on Thriller (V10) in yosemite. What does he win? I bet it's shitty.

Solo

Look at Jesse, being all third world hip with his graffiti. Now he is gone, off to mexico city, so I'm stuck in El Portrero Chico alone.

My endurance is coming back, slowly. It is really too bad that I won't be able to stay here longer, but a volcano is waiting - Pico de Orizaba, the tallest volcano in north america. I'm flying down to mexico city on christmas to climb it. Meeting Jesse down there, we are going to learn how to self arrest at 16,000 ft. We may even make an instructional video, let's see how our heads are pounding.

I went climbing with these two goobers a few days ago. Check out that 80s style. Hot. Yesterday I soloed some 5.10 up a badass spire, although this self-portrait doesn't really do it justice. Those guys on the other spire took some photos looking across, so hopefully I'll get those in a couple days.

Then I met up with some mexican climbers from Monterrey, a huge city, I had no idea. I hopped on some 13c and fell a few times, then blew on the onsight of Hombre de Rifle (13a), no good excuse, just fucked it up. The rock here definitely isn't the greatest limestone out there, even for north america. But in the winter, your options are limited on this continent, so I suppose it is about as good as it gets. El Salto is supposed to be better for the hard stuff, but it is a few hours away and not as road trip friendly without a car. I mean, how could I give up my wi-fi in the tent?

Finishing up a paper still, sleeping in a tent, rock climbing a bunch, this isn't too bad. Anyone know the season for mexican wrestling? I really think I need to go see a match when I'm in the city. Do they even have seasons for mexican wrestling?

Escalar

So the climbing is feeling a little better. I went to a new wall with Edgardo (love the hair), Culo de Gato, which was better than a cat's ass or whatever it translates as. By the way, there is this little kitten at the camp ground that is cute as fuck, purring as it gouges out chunks of flesh from your arm.

But the climbing was good, I'm getting into shape. I flashed Virasana (13a) without too much trouble. Either the camera is crooked or the moon's gravity was really strong that day, tilting the earth like the deck of a ship. Then I got incredibly close on Crawling King Snake, an interesting 13d with a dino and a stemming dihedral. I think I like climbing rocks like this, I was a little unsure about it at first.

A new plan is brewing, something in the works involving volcanoes, but I don't want to jinx it so that is all I'm going to say right now.

By the way, amna is amazing. Here she is, the mystery girl, hiding behind the hand. We are going surfing in hawaii in a few weeks, I'm excited. Never been to hawaii, never been surfing. Never been surfing in hawaii with amna. Just look at all these firsts! This girl I'll keep.

El Potrero Chico

Here's the plan. Finish papers, finish grading, drive to the border, walk across, fly from tijuana to monterrey, climb in el portrero chico. Not sure how is happened, but I didn't finish one paper, was forced to bring 60 exams with me to grade, and missed my flight. I don't really have good excuses, it was just me being me. And insofar as I wholeheartedly accept myself, I guess I've got to be satisfied with all my fuckups.

But maybe I can blame it on grad school being hard and all these distractions, like this and this. How can I be expected to focus with a girl like this around?

So I had to spend a night in a shitty hotel in tijuana. I've never been in a room with carpet that was this dirty, I wouldn't walk around without my shoes on. I slept with my clothes to shield myself from dirty needles.

I made it eventually, look at that photo, camping at the base of the mountain. I met a good crew here, Jesse with the cemetery, Val and the purple stuff, Mandi or however you spell it, and Dave.

I went climbing yesterday, did some mediocre 11s and then an awesome 12d/13a called Job Disgraced. I'm out of shape from the studies, and I messed up sequence, and I'm lame, and I smell bad. So it took me two tries, but like I said, the climb was brilliant.