August 29, 2007

The Hardest Climb in China




China is most likely the most irritating place in the world. Nothing works here, you can't imagine the frustration of not being able to count on anything not being shit. Yesterday I got a bike and after five minutes of riding I had to take it back because it was a piece of crap. Then I bought some new drill bits, but they are so warped they are almost unusable. Luckily the chinese bolts are a little messed too, and somehow the bolts cancel out the bits.

We returned from a late night bolting session at 2:00, and the key broke off in the lock to our apartment. The alloy hasn't made it to China yet, I think everything is made out of unprocessed iron. So we go to Jessie's apartment to crash on his spare bed, all I wanted was a shower. But what do you know, no water. Nope, there is water, just no cold water. I had to quickly splash the water over me because it was scalding my skin. Cold water? When do you run out of cold water? What is up here?

Someone ordered a white russian at the bar, and since there wasn't any Kahlua, the chinese bartender mixed them up some vodka milk.

A few days ago I got the FA of Sea of Tranquility (14a). This is a big country, but it is likely this is the hardest climb in all of China. 45 meters long and overhanging 50 feet, it's an epic monster. It's on the Moon Hill, that arch in Yangshuo that everyone has seen photos of. What are the thoughts on this beauty?