While you turds were recovering from Halloween parties, sitting at home watching teevee in your underwear, I was recovering up at the mountains, climbing rocks. Sunday was the first cold and blustery day of the season, and lord knows I like it cold and blustery. Black Mountain was living in the clouds...
After warming up on a bunch of obscure problems I've always wanted to get on, I surprised myself with a quick ascent of Dark Horse (V10). It was the climb in the old Rampage video that some British stole the FA on, beating out Obi and Chris. Two of the most amazing moves you'll ever do.
Then I headed up to the Tour de France boulder, and here's a shitty video of my send from the sit. Garrett and someone else (Alex?) put up the sit this summer and called it v12. For some reason, they started on two horrible holds with their backs in the dirt. It look heinous (does this word still exist?). The climb is much easier if you use the good hold a foot to the right. Is that cheating, using the good holds? I say v10 - no more, no less.
The movements are phenomenal - check out that huge drop knee in the beginning. I know, I know, the quality is horrendous. But I was by myself in the eye of the storm. It was cold and I didn't care. If it makes it any better, here is a super rad bonus video!
Also, quick, check out Joe Kinder's blog before the effect is lost! Reading about the smashed bolts last night, at the bottom I saw the entry "Whaddup," for reelz! I thought it was a comment on his blog from someone making fun of his wigger-isms. But nope, it was Joe Kinder making fun of himself, although indirectly and unconsciously. Funnier that way, in a Palinesque sort of way.
I'll get some Halloween photos up I hope. I
4 comments:
We started on lower holds i think they were down left of where you're starting. I think i have a pict. And it felt pretty darn hard V11/12.
they started directly to my left, with the right hand about a foot to the left of my left hand. starting there is super hard, but why grab the bad holds when there are better ones right in front of your face? better beta makes it easier!
alan, you obviously haven't mastered the art of the LOW low start. stick to route climbing, dude.
I agree with Alan. If you started on worse holds just for fun (and points) you have created a stupid eliminate. Word is bond. Respect for realz.
PS. I haven't seen this problem and I can't watch the video b/c I'm at work, therefore my opinion matters mostest.
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