September 16, 2007
A few days ago I got the third ascent of Lighting, probably the hardest climb ever FA'd by a Chinese. My god, time to move on past this climbing thing. I was on the route one day over a month ago when I first got here, then once again weeks later. I had to go back to get my draws off, and snuck away with the blase redpoint.
Here's a video of Abon on the second ascent, one day after Aqiang got it, courtesy of Tyson and Colton. It's actually an interesting story. Neil Grisham bolted the route for Abon last year, but after six months passed without an FA, Neil opened the climb up to everyone. Aqiang and Abon were then working it together, and Abon finally got it...one day after Aqiang. God damn, that would piss me off, but it goes to show the power of the send train.
The grade originally proposed was 14b, I thought it was more like 13d, I think the new book may call it 14a. Can the world be built on a compromise? Who knows these things anyway?