Nursing my broken skin, yesterday was spent with the studies. I get bored, so today I went for a short evening session. I couldn't do two 7b warm-ups, but then I sent Leopard Cave (8A+), so go figure. This photo shows the top-out, a crazy feet first toe/heel hook that you hold for a few moves. Well, I should say, most people do it this way. After falling there a few times, I got fed up and found a kneebar. I'd be surprised if anyone has gotten a kneebar on this climb again. When you lack the strength you need a new way to get up the boulders.
I suppose that I used to be somewhat apologetic about my kneebarring, but not anymore. I saw part of one of the Dosage videos today, and it showed Dave Graham using kneepads. If he can do it, so can I. After all, I'm already using sticky rubber on my feet, I back step occasionally, use foam pads, chalk, and I train in a gym. Why draw a line in the sand at kneepads?
That's all I have to say.
[UPDATE: The photo is Jonas Junker on Leopard cave. So I was wrong.]