My Car Returns

My Car has returned! Found a mile away, no computer, lacking love, but safe and working. They took my faceplate, but not the stereo. My crashpad, but not my climbing shoes. My broker speakers, but not my new ones. I am a little glad thieves ore stupid. If they were smart we would all be screwed. My car has beer so violated! No paint on the font half, no A/C, no stereo, leaks coolant. what has happened?

Now I play catchup with the work, making up for a few days of depression/apathy and a few days without a computed. I made it up to the rocks twice to lift my spirits. One day at the Tran I sent Harry Pothead (V8) and Angus (V9) second go, onsighted Soul Caliber (V9), and redpointed Year of the Cat (V10). Black Mountain booted me off Regeneration a bunch as well. I fell of the top, I could feel the skin peeling off my finger as it happened. There we go, another bloody hole in my tip.

But I finally came to terms with the theft, so I think I'll be ok now. One hell of a week.

[UPDATE] I wrote this post on my new tablet notebook using the handwriting recognition software. Look how far technology has come!

Devil's Dance

Check that out, the first V12. Damn it was cold - temps couldn't have been better. Oh the route climber in me loves the long problems. What a beast!

Paper Dragon

One more vid from today, this one on Paper Dragon. Who would have preferred a longer ass shot? Damn camera man rock. Let me know, I can make it happen.

Decent Day

Woh, today wasn't too bad at the tram. First a reading group on John Perry, then office hours, then tramway. Warmed up, did Paper Dragon (V10), did some spotting, sent Danimal (V10), quickly climbed Boardwalk (V10, since no one does it!), then got Soul of Darkness (V10). Like I said, woh. The only bad part was that I missed the high heels climbing competition at Thresh Hold, boo hoo. But the real thing to cry about this the amount of philosophy that won't read itself tonight. It's going to be up late with me.

Hit in Head with Snowball

My directoral debut. You can tell I have no idea what the hell I'm doing, either on the climb or in front of the mixing board. The clip is fairly self explanatory, but I think Joe summed it up pretty well: "That's the best thing you could have done right there Jake. You could have spotted him, you could have given him beta, but no, you did that. God bless you Jake, god bless."

Ferrari the Jerk

I forgot about this. Last weekend up at Tramway this bastard in the Ferrari took up two spaces. How expensive does your car have to be in order for you to feel justified in sitting double? The BMW in the next space over didn't feel like he had the right. The socialist in me didn't like the hierarchy, so I took back one of the spaces. The parking lot security guard loved what we were doing, and gave us moral support in a maternal kind of way. Sure, there were other spots, but I wanted that one. What a jerk. Him or me?

I was up at the tram on Monday as well for a late night session. I got back to the upper tram station at 9:00, and no one told me this, but the trams only run every forty-five minutes once it gets dark. I was bored for the whole time as the workers cleaned up the place, sitting for the last ten minutes in darkness after they turned off the light. The gift shop was closed - the bar was closed. It was it miserable, so don't miss that 9:00 tram next time you do some headlamp night bouldering.

Tramway

A new highball problem at the Tram, an FA by Aaron, our sled goddess from the previous post. It would be only 5.10a in Yosemite, but what does that make it here, in SoCal, for boulderers? I heard someone suggest V4. Not so sure about that.

[Correction]: I assumed Aron had two 'A's in his name, like me, because I thought he was cool. I was wrong, but he does bring up a good point. The slab would be 5.8, not 5.10a. I mis-spoke, since 10a's are I'm-glad-I-have-a-rope hard, and this guy wasn't.

Bouldering, Sledding, Jumping

I was mocked for wearing a suit to get my driver's license photo. My reasoning, that authority figures see your ID, and no matter how scuzzy you look at the moment, if you've got a suit in your photo you can't be all bad. Today it paid off, and I got out of a ticket for having both Jake and Shira in the passenger seat of my car. When the cop asked me if I knew why I'd been pulled over, I said no, and felt like a kid covered in crumbs being asked where the cookies went. I love transparent lies. Seriously though, that suit is paying for itself.

Then some climbing. Bouldering at the Tram. I got the moves on Devil's Dance (V12) and worked Black Flame (V11). The highlight of the day was a sledding finale. This video is Aaron, the speedy of the bunch. Eventually my clothes came off, but I don't think youtube is ready for that video. I take up a lot of bandwidth, being a stud/stallion and all.

Then a physics partay, where I jumped off the second story of the house into the pool. Sober. It's how I roll.